|
If Tokyo is Japan's capital, one might call Osaka its anti-capital. With what you
will call it so, however, is left much open to your own findings upon the visit
to the city. Veiled much with a commercial-centric city touch, you may as well start
from picking up the lively intonation of Osaka dialect, heard from the people as
you ride on the escalators standing on the right, instead of the left in Tokyo;
then discovering the contrast of popular food to eastern Japan, as you look for
places to lunch. The deeper you get inside, and at the end of your stay, it is not
completely impossible that you may have compiled your own original list of reasons
covering from history, culture, sports, to business.
Osaka dates back to the Asuka and Nara period. Under the name Naniwa,
it was the capital of Japan from 683 to 745, long before the upstarts at Kyoto took
over. Even after the capital was moved elsewhere, Osaka continued to play an important
role as a hub for land, sea and river-canal transportation. (See "808 Bridges" infobox.)
During the Tokugawa era, while Edo (now Tokyo) served as the austere seat of military
power and Kyoto was the home of the Imperial court and its effete courtiers, Osaka
served as "the Nation's Kitchen" (tenka-no-daidokoro), the collection and
distribution point for rice, the most important measure of wealth. Hence it was
also the city where merchants made and lost fortunes and cheerfully ignored repeated
warnings from the shogunate to reduce their conspicuous consumption.
During Meiji era, Osaka's fearless entrepreneurs took the lead in industrial development,
making it the equivalent of Manchester in the U.K. A thorough drubbing in World
War 2 left little evidence of this glorious past-even the castle is a ferroconcrete
reconstruction-but to this day, while unappealing and gruff on the surface, Osaka
remains Japan's best place to eat, drink and party , and in legend
(if not in practice) Osakans still greet each other with mōkarimakka? ,
"are you making money?".
|