Despite the fact that Chengdu's old wooden buildings and narrow streets have been largely replaced by skyscrapers and shopping malls, the city retains an easygoing Sichuan charm. It's a pleasure exploring its green parks, busy temples, bustling outdoor markets, open-air restaurants and jumbled side streets.

Rugged Sichuan has always been remote from the power centers in eastern China, and its distinct culture is a joy to experience. Try to catch a Sichuan opera performance, characterized by amazingly rapid "face changing" tricks, fire breathing and earthy humor. The region's natural beauty is not to be missed-take a trip into the nearby mountains and forests, home of the famous bamboo-munching giant pandas, some of which can be seen at the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base just outside of town.

For a taste of Sichuan culture, join the locals in a Chengdu teahouse . Don't rush it-the idea's not to grab a quick pick-me-up, but to unwind and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. Of course, Sichuan cuisine is famous the world over for its tongue-numbing pepper, fiery chili and steamy hot pot, making the province's capital a delicious place to be (those who don't care for spicy fare shouldn't worry-there are plenty of milder alternatives among Chengdu's restaurants ).

History

The administrative seat of several ancient kingdoms, Chengdu has a 2,300-year history as an important center of study and trade. In the early fourth century BC, the ancient Shu state established a capital in today's Chengdu. The conquering Qin State (778-207 BC) enlarged the city, adding an impressive wall. During the Western Han Dynasty (206-225 BC), the city was called Jincheng (Brocade City) after its thriving silk brocade industry. Once the Han Dynasty fell, giving way to the bloody Three Kingdoms Period, Chengdu became capital of one of the Shu Han (Kingdom of Shu).

The city continued to develop as a regional center into the Tang (618-907 AD) and Song Dynasties (960-1279 AD) and is known for certain innovations-for example, paper money was first printed and used in Chengdu during the Song Dynasty. During the Tang Dynasty, it was home to China's best-known pair of poets, Du Fu and Li Bai, perhaps the most famous of many artists and writers who have lived and worked in Chengdu over the centuries.

During World War II, Chongqing , then a part of Sichuan, served as the Kuomintang fallback capital after the Japan's brutal seizure of the previous Nationalist capital of Nanjing . Thousands of Chinese officials, scientists, scholars and businesspeople came to Sichuan at that time, bringing a wave of industrial development. After 1945, the Communists rapidly beat back Nationalist forces throughout China, finally besieging Chengdu, where Chiang Kai Shek's army made its final stand before fleeing to Taiwan. The People's Liberation Army took the city on December 10, 1949, and with it, all of mainland China.

The surrounding Sichuan countryside suffered greatly during the Great Leap Forward (1958-1960), with many perishing of starvation, and Chengdu lost a number of historical monuments, buildings and artifacts during the tumultuous Cultural Revolution (1966-1976). In recent years, the city has come roaring back and now exists as a modern industrial metropolis of over 10 million inhabitants.

Climate

Chengdu experiences pleasant springs, hot and humid summers, cool autumns and temperate but damp winters (averaging 5°C/41°F). July and August can be uncomfortable, with temperatures reaching 35°C (95°F). In the heat of the summer, many locals seek relief in weekend mountain retreats or venture out after sunset to do business, shop and eat. Summer also sees periods of heavy rain. The best time to visit Chengdu is between March and June or between September and November when it's cooler and less rainy. One explanation for the locals' love of hot and spicy food is that the chilies and pepper help the body cope with the damp climate.